IN BETWEEN LAND AND SEA: HEYSHAM AND COCKERHAM FLATS
HISTORY AND CULTURE
HEYSHAM
Parishes of Heysham, Cockerham and Lancaster form southern part of South Lonsdale.
Heysham occupies a peninsula on the bay of Morecambe westward of Lancaster, having a larger extent of sand belonging to it than dry land, only about 700 acres are cultivated. It possesses a considerable herring fishery and an ancient ruined chapel of Saxon foundation. Village of Heysham is inhabited by fishermen and farmers, but the church stands on the shore in Lower Heysham, erected in the Norman style, and of very old date.
The Pictorial History of the County of Lancaster, Routledge, London 1844
Flint tools from France, dating back 12,000 years, have been unearthed on the Heysham Peninsula.
Heysham has had a role since pre-Christian times as a ceremonial burial site.
Heysham Village home to 17th century cottage lined streets, an ancient church and chapel plus spectacular views across Morecambe Bay – has made it a favourite beauty spot and tourist attraction for generations.
JMW Turner painted 5 paintings based on sketches from Heysham including Crossing Lancaster Sands and The Crook O’Lune, near Lancaster. John Ruskin also stayed in the village of Heysham.
Linder states 3 sources of energy: nuclear (power stations), spiritual (St Patrick’s chapel and church) and social (Art Deco Midland Hotel in Morecambe).
Heysham Head Holiday Park, traditional Lancashire holiday camps popular from the later 1950s to the 1970s – now closed. This holiday park saw the first public appearance of Pinky & Perky (of later TV fame).
Currently home to a port with many rail links and various cargo and passenger ships serving the Irish Sea; bland new estates a mile inland from the older village; and large number of landfill sites.
I Know Where I’m Going: A Guide to Morecambe & Heysham, Michael Bracewell & Linder, Book Works London
More detailed information on the history of Heysham can be found at:
HEYSHAM POWER STATION
Power Station 1 built 1970-1983 and started generating power in July 1983, due for decommissioning 2014.
Power Station 2 built 1979-1988, generating power in July 1988, estimated decommissioning is 2023.
Power stations are owned by British Energy (EDF Energy) and work in conjunction with The Wildlife Trust to manage/fund Heysham Nature Reserve.
Tours of the power station are available.
Large employer for the area.
The building of the power station affected tourists to the area from the 1970s onwards – but not because of environmental concerns, but rather that holiday makers did not wish to share lodgings with construction workers.
GLASSON (and Sunderland Point)
The dock was opened in 1783 and was the port for Lancaster. It is now mainly used for pleasure craft which moor in the canal basin, some commercial cargo still exists (grain and animal feed). Original houses for the dockworkers and Customs House remain unchanged and provide and attractive setting for the dock. (note that date differs from that given below of 1787)
Look Around Lancashire, Third Edition
Flat and open on all sides, allowing for ‘far reaching views’,
Old Glasson preceded dock and consists only of thatched cottages and farm buildings – formed by a colony of fishermen. Village was first mentioned in 1561. Part of the township of Thurnham.
Glasson Dock is the port of Lancaster and was heavily involved in the timber trade, and when the timber trade fell away Glasson Dock was greatly affected. Other imports are iron ore, cork, cement, china and general articles. Exports are coal and pig iron. (note – no mention of the slave trade in the literature, maybe swept under the carpet.)
Name is thought to come from (Glass, Glaes, Glas) meaning colour – a blue, green, fresh, light or bright hue with reference to colour of water.
1738 – an Act obtained for erection of a ‘mole’ in order to secure shelter and a place of convenience for vessels to discharge at.
1749 – Act to improve the river Lune and building a quay or wharf.
1772 – Act “to extend the same” (previous Act).
1779 – Pier Hotel opened.
1787, May – wet dock was opened, hence the name Glasson Dock – prior to this place has been a tidal harbour i.e. dry at low tide.
In addition to the dock there is a timber pond / canal basin, 5 storey warehouses, timber yards and a shipbuilders.
1826, 16 May – the ‘Sprightly’ was the first boat which sailed from Glasson to Preston, via canal.
1837, 8 March – the ‘Acorn’ was the first ‘vessel’ (a superior canal boat) to travel to Preston.
1848 – two lighthouses built
1883, 9 July – rail line from Lancaster to Glasson (North-Western Railway) opened.
Last 50 years of 19th century population of Glasson around 300.
County History Reprints, Northward: Historic, Topographic, Residential, and Scenic Gleanings, etc. Between Preston and Lancaster, Hewitson, A. Republished SR Publishers Ltd (1969) (First published, Preston, 1900)
Glasson Dock retains some commercial shipping and a marina which holds 220 boats. At the weekend the village is now a regular meeting point for motorcyclists.
SUNDERLAND POINT
Opposite the estuary is Sunderland Point – which had been a dock prior to Glasson, but died of as a harbour when ships started to use Glasson instead. Around 1900 its population was around 50, all the male inhabitants were fisherman.
Sambo’s Grave is located at Sunderland Point – Sambo had been a captain’s servant who was left in Sunderland, upon thinking he had been abandoned he refused to eat and soon died. Sailor’s buried him close to the shore (now inland) and 60 years later the local Reverend James Watson, placed a monumental stone over the site of the grave. (note from the Bracewell and Linder book, the villages would not allow a black man to be buried in the church and as such was buried at the furthest point where land meets sea).
County History Reprints, Northward: Historic, Topographic, Residential, and Scenic Gleanings, etc. Between Preston and Lancaster, Hewitson, A. Republished SR Publishers Ltd (1969) (First published, Preston, 1900)
Once known as ‘a port to rival Bristol’, became known during its late 18th century depression as ‘Cape Famine’. Separated from main land twice a day by tides, reached via a meandering road through shallow pools and cool mud banks.
Once home to a community of white robed monks – whole area has a history of healing, which may correspond to the broader spiritual energy of the place.
I Know Where I’m Going: A Guide to Morecambe & Heysham, Michael Bracewell & Linder, Book Works London
THURNHAM (and Cockersand Abbey)
Linked to Glasson and Galgate by the Lancaster and Preston Canal opened in 1826.
In 1900 described as a purely agricultural township (except for Glasson) with a small unchanging population.
Thurnham Hall was built during the reign of Queen Mary (1553-1558) – has long associations with Catholics and Catholic uprisings, as a place of worship, meeting and hiding. Owned by the Thurnham’s, then the Daltons.
The Daltons of Thurnham Hall are buried at Cockersand Abbey, 2.5 miles west of Thurnham Hall. The Abbey is very exposed and it has been suggested that the site it was built on was originally an island. Originally established as a hermitage between 1154 and 1189. Became a hospital and then a monastery in 1190. Dissolved in 1539 (when 22 priests, 5 helpless men, and 57 servants lived there), in 1544 the Abbey and its lands were sold to a family who married into the Daltons, who bought Thurnham Hall in 1566 and have owned the Abbey ever since (written in 1900). Last person buried at the Abbey was Miss Elizabeth Dalton in 1861.
The only portion of the Abbey now visible is the chapterhouse. It was built from red sandstone quarried from the shore.
County History Reprints, Northward: Historic, Topographic, Residential, and Scenic Gleanings, etc. Between Preston and Lancaster, Hewitson, A. Republished SR Publishers Ltd (1969) (First published, Preston, 1900)
COCKERHAM
The largest village in the Lune Estuary area is Cockerham, its name is thought to be Celtic in origin and means ‘homestead by a winding river’ (http://www.cockerham-pc.org.uk). The village can be traced back to the Doomsday book (entered as Cocreham) and was owned by Norman Barons following the conquest (Rootsweb, undated). References are made following an antiquarian expedition commissioned by Henry VIII referring ‘to its dangerous sands and to a curious salt gathering plan in vogue on the coast which the river traverses in its way to the Lune estuary’ (ibid.). Salt gathering and the sands obviously playing an important part in the areas prosperity.
The treacherous sands were also important to the area up until 1857, when guided crossing across the eight mile stretch were replaced by the opening of the railway. The environment has played a large part in the areas’ successes and failures, strong winds attributed to the twice burning and raising of the local mill in 1802 and 1849. The area is so mysterious it is even said to have been visited by the devil, who was thwarted in a game of riddles by the local schoolmaster. This time it was the landscape that saved them. (Rootsweb, undated)
‘Now the poor fellow’s was a pitiful case.
As plain might be seen from his long length of face.
"Now, make me, dear sir, a rope of your sand,
Which will bear washing in Cocker, and not lose a strand."
The devil and mate then went down to the strand,
In a jiffy they twisted a fine rope of sand,
And dragged it along with them over the land;
But when they brought the rope to be washed,
To atoms it went- the rope was all smashed.
The devil was foiled, wroth, and gave him a shaking;
Up he flew to the steeple- his frame a;; a-quaking,
With one horrid frig- his mind very unwilling,
He stride to the brig o’er Broadfleet at Pilling.’
(Rootsweb, undated)
Church originally founded by William de Lancaster around 1160 (rebuilt early 1600s and 1814), contains many ancient tombs.
The Pictorial History of the County of Lancaster, Routledge, London 1844
In 1719 a topographical work referred to the quick and dangerous sands – guides were used to cross the sands at low tide, this was an 8 mile trip to Furness. In 1857 the Furness railway was opened and the dangerous sands crossing ceased.
Present village of Cockerham built in 1843.
Population for the parish of the township of Cockerham (covering 14,750 acres), 1801: 714, 1871: 803, 1891: 705.
County History Reprints, Northward: Historic, Topographic, Residential, and Scenic Gleanings, etc. Between Preston and Lancaster, Hewitson, A. Republished SR Publishers Ltd (1969) (First published, Preston, 1900)
MIDDLETON SANDS
Home to a concealed works, producing Germolene – which can be smelled in the air.
Home to various caravan parks.
Flocks of seabirds (Oystercatchers – upto 5000; Redshanks – 800) feeding on the salt marsh.
Old Pontins holiday camp now derelict.
OVERTON
Specific history on Overton can be found at:
STODDAY
History on Stodday can be found at:
OUTSIDE OUR SITE, BUT BORDERING IT:
LANCASTER
For history of Lancaster see separate information entitled, ‘A Brief History of Lancaster’ by Tim Lambert, supplied by Danielle Walker.
MORECAMBE
Area around Morecambe Bay/Lune Estuary advertised as ‘The Sunset Coast’ throughout 1920s and 1930s.
Traditional British seaside resort and all that represents – ‘the lingering fade-out of an archaic way of life’.
Home to the recently renovated Art Deco, Midland Hotel. Once a grand and slick hotel, that could attract regular guests such as Coco Chanel.
I Know Where I’m Going: A Guide to Morecambe & Heysham, Michael Bracewell & Linder, Book Works London
Zac
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